domenica 25 gennaio 2015
Shoes and wine pairing? A mirror of the society!
Did you have ever had the chance to observe people making aperitive, look at what they drink and then look at their outfit, especially shoes? I did! But here comes a little bit of romance.
Ok, I can't say there is a mathematical correlation between what you wear and what you drink but some common underneath elements for sure:
Elegant business-man in black, just after work. They have never time to stop home and wear a pair of jeans, they come directly from the office. They are the worse. You know why? Because they are wearing a mask and you cannot understand how they really are. Multitude of facades. Many type of wines. Many type of drinks. Not too far away the chance they start directly with a cocktail to release the stress and reduce the "time-to-get-drunk" period, especially in the big busy cities. Or simply the time to get tipsy (softer view). Rarely you see them ordering with awareness of the facts. True. I am generalizing now. It's a story. Anyway, they drink it quite fast. Conclusion: there is no type of wine for this category (sometimes).
Ripped jeans, last autumn-winter collection of sneakers, alternative but attentive to details. They follow the trend and now the trend is to retrieve the "old-style", not only in the fashion world. Have you noticed how much we are getting back to old traditions? More and more people are fed-up of nouvelle cuisine and want to go back to simplicity. The same with wine. And we are actually assisting to the the "re-birth" to the #sur lie method (in Italy we call it #col fondo which literally means with the residual yeasts). With the natural bottle re-fermentation and no filtration, the wine obtains a natural, "rustic & country" flavor and it is exactly the same type of sparkling wine that our grandparents used to drink. #Costadilà #col fondo wine is now quite in vogue in Italy (#prosecco or #glera grape). I love also #Menti one, made with #garganega. Stefano Menti is an alternative and genuine fellow and he wants his wine to be "deliberately downgraded" (read my post on that if you are curious: http://cenedimary.blogspot.it/2014/05/a-wine-deliberately-downgraded-menti.html),


Ah, I forgot, don't you like #Berlusconi? Well, no doubt, go for #BartoloMascarello "I don't make wines with fantasy names. I don't make crus, I don't make wine in barriques, my wines don't have perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. I'm the last of the Mohicans".
martedì 13 gennaio 2015
#"Da Vittorio" - 3 Michelin stars restaurant experience!
As soon as I passed the second entrance (into the restaurant of course, it's not a labyrinth) I got the feeling to be in a fairy tale. Everbody since the first moment up to to end is taking care of you (at this stage I avoid any pecuniary comment ;) ). We got accompanied to our table, whose distance from the others was perfectly measured (I had still the chance to eavesdrop a tiny bit from our neighbours :) ) and instantaneously served an entrè (maybe I remember wrong and it was after we ordered ... doesn't matter). It was really elaborated so don't ask me to repeat it. Nice, indeed.
I was a little bit surprised about the Menù. I expected it was more oriented to "themed choices" rather than to the usual Starter/Main/Dessert structure. There was instead just one "dinner package" (let's define it like that even if it sounds more touristic than starred) for which we went for, without thinking even half a second. I might won't return to Vittorio another time in my life or, better, for sure I won't return to Vittorio very soon (it sounds less dramatic!) and therefore I wanted to try EVERYTHING. Let me let eat also the tablecloth! Yes. because "Da Vittorio", differently from the "new-age" Calandre philosophy, you have also the tablecloth. You see, I am not a liar, this restaurant is traditional as I commented before.
Stop to be a blabbermouthing (I am speaking to myself now)!
The pictures speak themselves (maybe they would speak better if they were made by a real photographer and not with my I-phone) but I just want to mention the courses which impressed me more. The Tuna tartare with an oysters marshmallow foam. The fish risotto, where the ingredients were decomposed (included the condensed bouillon) and needed to be melt togheteher to regain their essence in the multitude. The mixed fried fish where each ingredient was basically part of a complex mosaic. The "decomposed zuppa inglese". Their assortment of homemade (as everything there of course, even the cheese is prepared by them and not supplied) of bon-bon of all colors scale and filled in with the most unthinkable ingredient (even vodka).
From my position I could admire the open-plan kitchen and the multitude of chefs at work.Wow! That looked like an army.
And the same the waiters were walking around like ants. So I can assure you that bread on my table was not missing. From the saulty croissants to the "whatever other kind of bread". Extremely tasty and fresh.
The cherry on the top was our wine. Useless to say that the wine list was like a bible containing all possible religions. We opted for an autoctonous one. We went for a certainty: the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo of Valentini, 2011. Valentini is a myth. They say his Trebbiano he is the only one in the world able to cope with up to 20 years aging. Light but not light; the border between you like/you don't like is very ephemeral. But if you decide to like it, you do it seriously. Those slight mould notes which open themselves leaving space for a unique and irresistible complexity are unforgettable. Not filtered, not concentrated, not aged in barriques. Balanced, fat, fresh. And with that I have said everthing.
The cherry on the top was our wine. Useless to say that the wine list was like a bible containing all possible religions. We opted for an autoctonous one. We went for a certainty: the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo of Valentini, 2011. Valentini is a myth. They say his Trebbiano he is the only one in the world able to cope with up to 20 years aging. Light but not light; the border between you like/you don't like is very ephemeral. But if you decide to like it, you do it seriously. Those slight mould notes which open themselves leaving space for a unique and irresistible complexity are unforgettable. Not filtered, not concentrated, not aged in barriques. Balanced, fat, fresh. And with that I have said everthing.
mercoledì 7 gennaio 2015
#Milan - a paradise for whatever kind of lover
I love to observe, I love to walk (and observe while I walk obviosuly), I love to write down what I have seen to fix it, like a sort of guarantee I freeze my emotions, the same emotions that after a while can fade, just because time makes it happen. During these Xmas holidays I have spent few days in Milan, just to relax and chill-out a little bit. I neglect to listen to that slice of cake of opinions which categorize that city as grey dyed, just business-oriented, where you have nothing to see. Excuse me, can you repeat? Do you have a soul?
On the contrary, I got absolutely captured by the massive amount of colours, lights, tastes and flavors.
I have been living there several years for study (mmm, and not only ...), but this time I had seen it from a different angle, with different eyes let's say...And, frankly admitting it, with a thicker wallet, a particular which always helps...
1st: Useless to say that if you are a fashion addicted, Milan is extremely dangerous. That's why I strongly recommend to walk around the quadrilateral fashion district on the 1st of January, as I did. You can still enjoy the glitter of the Xmas lights and the dazzingl haute couture maison's windows, having their doors locked. Ok, the sensation is not exactly like the one you have when you come out staggering with a countless number oh shopping bags on your wrist (passing by an hyper-strapping man in black), but at least you can dream about your dinner without any sense of guilt (so, my advice is: wait until the day after, when the sales start!).


And what about Navigli? is it about food lovers? There are a couple of places I would recommend to go and one of this is #El Brellin, the "Milanese style", especially their brunch is excellent.
The massive part of this suburb is made of small bars and pubs where you can enjoy an happy hour. Amazing if you are a student under your 30s ... (sobh :-( ) To avoid if you have a sensitivity (just a slight one is enough) for decent food and beverage. I am not generalyzing of course, I am not the one going for the "black and white theory", exception exist in life, always. But, in general (and I have just said I am not generalyzing ;-)) in the "happy hour" (where the formula is: pay for the drink and eat whatever is served on the buffet) the quality of the food is quite low.... and dangerous, again.. And, I would bet that whatever kind of pasta left hours and hours there macerating would lose its appeal (so quality and timing are playing toghether!). Finally I have learnt (after years and years) that maceration is not always good!
Always speaking about Navigli, what can I say of traditional trattorias serving traditional food? I have been at "La Trattoria Milanese", located at the start of one of the two Naviglio lanes. You can enjoy an #ossobuco "alla Milanese" and a #risotto "alla Milanese" and something else "alla Milanese". But let me say that the place has lost some shine throughout the years. It looks like time hasn't passed there but not in a positive connotation. It looks somehow a tired environment. I am sorry :( ? Yes, I am.


Go to the Eat's food hall at the #Excelsior luxury shopping center and you can find the most trendy labels, also natural and orange wines. And also a very nice guy (well prepared) which after half an hour chatting with me and disclosing his knowhow, started to give vent to its frustration about the professionalism of some colleagues and bla, bla, bla...That's life!
Or go to Eataly at Milano Smeraldo and there you can find many interesting labels (a part from those where Farinetti business is involved...). I personally do not like Eataly so much (you see it? I am not a lyer, before I said that I don't like formats), but a visit to it it's worthed at least to understand towards which direction we are moving. Should I cry now? A small tear, come on!
Anyway, anyhow, I personally love more rustic places. Those place that to get there you simply need to know them beacuse they are not famous. Do you understand what I mean? The case is that I got the luck to bump into a very "vivid" and "traditional" winery quite far from the city center, precisely in Via Paolo Sarpi, in the heart of the Milan Chinese ghetto. Simply I loved it. As it's often the case in such places, conversation with the staff and management was part of the experience. Browsing the shelves full of handwritten tags helping in understanding what wonders are you looking at was the most fascinating part. And the excellent glass of German Riesling I had too. If I remember well it was a Dönnhoff of 2012 Vintage. The name of the winery? #Cantine Isola.

And please, do not forget to try the tuna belly with goose foie gras & Maldon salt. Upss, I forgot to say one thing, it's dangerous! You can like it so much that you prefer to explode rather then stop eating.
Conclusion: if you are not a scaredy cat, go to Milan eat, drink, make shopping and enjoy it!
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